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Snipe Follow-up
Charlie Koch read our article on planer snipe
in the August
issue and wanted to pass along a few comments he felt might help
out other readers.
"I've seen the snipe issue come up several times
on chat forums," Charlie said. "I know that snipe on smaller
planers is a problem, because there isn't enough adjustment. I have
a 12" Delta and just have to gently lift on the board on the outfeed
side to eliminate snipe.
"On those smaller units, it's hard to eliminate snipe. The larger
units (15" and up), if set up properly, will give a snipe free finish.
I have a Busy Bee 15" and have worked with a 20" also, and once they
are set up to the manufacturer's specs, they work perfectly. It takes
a little time to go through all the adjustments, especially the rollers.
On the BB (Busy Bee) planer, the difference between the front and rear
roller is only 6/1000".
"After you are done making adjustments to your planer, I suggest
you run a piece of pine through on a very, very light cut and look for
roller marks. There should be next to none, or your roller pressure
is too great. You don't need a lot of pressure if your table is kept
clean and smooth, and once in a while sprayed with a wood top coat.
"With my BB planer, I plane all my pine to its exact finished thickness
because the planer is capable of it, and it's hard on my drum sander
belts. I bought that planer at a good price because of snipe. The previous
owner was adding four inches to each end of every board he ran through
it. Now, I have absolutely no snipe!"
Charlie
Medieval Carving
Last month, reader Immie van Kalken from Amsterdam,
Holland, wrote to Woodezine asking if anybody could help her "find
information, and preferably pictures, of late medieval carving, especially
the very fine stuff of rosary beads in boxwood". Does anybody know
of any publications that might hit on this subject?
If you can steer Ms. van Kalken to a source, she would be very grateful.
Drop her an e-mail
at ika@bigliftshipping.com.
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