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Table Saw

This featherboard has two parts, a base and a set of fingers. This configuration means that the fingers are raised slightly off the table for added stability, and they can easily be replaced if needed. It also means that the fingers can be offset, so that they push the wood against the fence in front of the blade (top photo), and not against the blade itself. One should always locate a feather-board BEFORE the blade, to avoid kickback.

Two stopped slots in the base house a couple of threaded knobs that screw into holes in the cast iron tabletop (bottom photo). I just drilled and tapped them because the iron was thick enough. If your saw has a thin steel top, you can weld or epoxy a couple of nuts to the underside of the table, instead of tapping.

I much prefer clamping the base to the table - rather than using a featherboard with a cleat that rides in the miter gauge slot and just locks with a couple of cams. This one is extremely rigid, which makes me believe that it will handle kickback better if it is ever asked to.


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